protrusions on armor

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protrusions on armor

Postby Aelin Greenbough » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:18 am

Well, I'm about to sit down and finish a pair of articulated pauldrons, 15oz, tooled and everything... however, before I sink in the time, I've a question for you all.

I've designed the shoulder cap with a curved "lip" closer to the neck; does this count as a protrusion, or what? Here be some pictures of the test piece- the actual armor will be larger (shrinkage!), as I both enlarged the peice, and will be doing room-temp water hardening as opposed to the boil http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150210836995607.441996.808235606&saved#!/photo.php?fbid=10150670567415607&set=a.10150210836995607.441996.808235606&type=1&theater
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Forkbeard » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:53 am

Your design is fine. That ridge does not count as a protrusion. Protrusions are stuuf that can poke out eyes or poke holes in weapon covers. Spiky stuff.

Before you really get started, though, you should read some actual instructions written by some one who knows what they are doing.
You NEVER put leather in boiling water. Yes, it amkes it hard, but it is NOT the right way to do it and is completely unpredicable. It also causes leather with flaws in it to crack.
There IS NO room tmperature hardening. You can shape it and get it to stay, sort of, but it is not hardened.
There are good instruction all over this board, if you search.
You should also read the section in Cariadocs Misellany. called "the perfect armor". Probly the most informative article on the subject since the old House of the Wolf site went down. You could maybe find the tutorials at thehouseofthewolf.com if you look in the Way Back Machine.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Aelin Greenbough » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:58 am

thanks Fork - and by room-temp hardening, I meant forming... 15oz tends to stay where you put it, in my limited experience... and is plenty hard enough.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Forkbeard » Sat Jun 25, 2011 12:07 pm

It won't unless you harden it. The first time you fight in the rain, or soak it through with sweat, it's going to loose it's shape.
Properly hardened leather will retain it's shape even if it gets really wet. It will also retain more of it's rigidity longer the harder it is to start.
Don't assume ****. You are thinking becuase you are using thicker leather, it is therefore more armor like, more hardcore, more... something.
The truth is: it is just more material. it still need to be processed right it become good armor.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Aelin Greenbough » Sat Jun 25, 2011 1:32 pm

Duly noted. Just read Caraidoc's article, thanks for pointing it out. My assumptions have just come from some bracers I've made in the past, and how they've held up over the past year - mind you, I never use 'em in the rain, and the shapes/shapeing involved was very, very simple. Getting 15oz leather to hold shape in a cylinder is likely much easier than stretching leather over shoulders and the like - and has thus allowed me to get by without the waxy love.

*Edit* Finished reading the second article Caraidoc wrote, in which he details soaking and hot-water (not boiling) hardening methods. To clarify, I used a hot-water, not boiling, soak to form the shoulder peice in the picture. Going to do some more reading, and consult a few more people - one of my friends did all the leather armor for Outlander a few years back, and he's giving me some tips now and then - although I'm full aware that there's an explicit difference between "designed for film" and "designed for fighting".
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Forkbeard » Sat Jun 25, 2011 3:03 pm

The magic happens when you bake it. The fibers in the leather are in the shape of a cow at first, then it's processed and made flat-ish, streching and shrinking those fibers.
When you make it into yet another shape, soaking in water allows you to jam those fibers into that shape.
But they will not stay. Baking at 180F heats up the ellastormers or whatever inside the fibers inside the leather, locking them into the new shape.
You need to take it out and reshape it every 20 minutes or so for the first hour, but after that, it's as hard as wood.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Arrakis » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:16 pm

Do it the way Forkbeard says. It works great.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby deadsnow » Wed Aug 03, 2011 2:19 pm

i was looking for a way to harden and i found this so get the leather ( what weight? or size er whatever) soak it in hot water and then bake at 180F and then i have my armor?
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Mekoot Rowan » Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:24 pm

deadsnow wrote:i was looking for a way to harden and i found this so get the leather ( what weight? or size er whatever) soak it in hot water and then bake at 180F and then i have my armor?


Yeah, just buy a big roll of leather that you think is big enough find a big vat of boiling water (soup will work if you can't find any water) for whatever amount of time you want then bake it for however long you feel is good and you'll have the perfect helm or whatever piece of armor your were imagining to begin with. It really is that easy, no tools or work of any kind just hot water/soup and an oven.

*Edited to add more sarcasm*
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby deadsnow » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:01 pm

i was just confirming.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby Thorondor » Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:59 pm

Rowan wrote:*Edited to add more sarcasm*


I think you need more sarcasm...and more soup too :D

Oh, and deadsnow...don't make armor until you've been fighting at least a year...preferably not until you're in college and not growing any more so you don't waste more cows than needed.
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Re: protrusions on armor

Postby deadsnow » Thu Aug 04, 2011 10:23 pm

yeah i just grew an inch and a half in a week so.... yeah. i kinda hope i stop growin pretty soon here my knees be killin me.
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