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working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 11:44 pm
by timff8
Hey all,

I'm working on pauldrons to attach to my cuirass and I'm hoping to get some questions answered or worked on.

Specifically, I'm worried about getting the lames to lay right. I want to make hussar-style pauldrons like this:
http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/polcrt/images/Hussar1.jpg

But maybe with fewer lames.
The point is I'm not sure how to attach them to the underlying leather straps running parallel to the upper arm. I'm not sure how far down the lame I want them riveted so they hold the structure, but don't become rigid. I want flexibility so that when I move them can shift a bit, but I don't want them flopping all about.

Thanks for any input,

Edwin/Tim

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:15 am
by Caleidah
You'll want to attach the straps to each lame near the top. That allows flexibility and traversal range vertically across the plates. It also helps hide the rivets, which I think makes the armor look a lot better.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:42 am
by Kyrian
If you haven't already, I would suggest creating and patterning out the pauldrons using posterboard or thicker craft foam and brass paper brads that look like this:

Image

They will give you an opportunity to test the articulation and get an idea of where exactly you need to put the rivets to get the articulation you want. Another benefit of patterning is that, if you should decide to make another set of pauldrons for yourself, you will already have the patterns to cut out of the leather. Take the time to label each pattern piece accurately and, if you should use thinner posterboard, keep in mind that the thickness of the leather will need to be considered in figuring out where the rivets should go and how the articulation works.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:29 pm
by timff8
Caleidah that's what I was initially thinking, and indeed what I see on historical examples. I'm just sort of paranoid that they'll flex too much and you'll see the straps; the lames I'm working with are going to be 4" long with a 1" overlap, which is pretty long. I'm using fewer, larger lames to save on materials.
Kyrian I have made a mock-up out of cardstock for sizing, but it's not helping me much for this part of the construction. Because the parts weigh so little they're not hanging realistically. I'd use another material but any heavier and it's going to be a pain to get them to curve easily to fit the shape I need for the lames.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:44 pm
by Caleidah
Have you hardened leather at all? It's really not a difficult process and results in the leather looking a lot sharper in the end result.

The short version: Soak leather in water (total coverage) for about an hour or until air bubbles stop rising. THen, place the leather in a preheated 175* oven on a flat pan. Check it every 15 min to correct for shaping.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 6:51 pm
by timff8
I have water-formed leather before and that results in the leather getting quite a bit stiffer and harder. I'm also working with two layers flesh-to-flesh which tends to make it pretty stiff. I'm more worried about (when I said flexing) about the underlying straps flexing a lot, though now that I think about it it's unlikely. I'm playing around with a mock-up right now as Kyrian suggested.

As a supplementary question do you guys recommend using a wider central trap or two straps towards the edges? I'm leaning very heavily towards two parallel straps but If you guys suggest a central strap I could be persuaded.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 7:48 pm
by Caleidah
Most historical examples use parallel, and that's what I use. Keeps the armor from twisting and getting caught on itself in motion.

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 2:56 am
by timff8
Do you suggest a certain distance in from the edge as an attachment point or would you rivet the straps right on the edge of the lames?

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 10:25 pm
by Caleidah
It's up to you. I'd recommend that you not get too far from the edge, but you don't want your hole right up against the outside. An inch of inset ought to do you well.

Internal pictures here pretty well sum up the stuff I've suggested.
http://nadler.us/spaulders.html

Re: working on pauldrons

PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:31 am
by timff8
Okay that makes sense. Very cool; I've seen a lot of spaulders like that and they usually look really nice when worn.