Red sword workshop

[Forkbeard]

So I'm sick of my 1/2" round core 48" red's failing for flex after a short time. I'm moving up to a bigger core in my 48" sword, but am undecided what to use.
I want a large enough core to re-use several times and put a thrusting tip on.
The first experiment is a 1/2" square core.
I'm also experimenting with handle length. I used to just go with a 12" handle but this time I'm going for max length to see what thats like.
I'm also think alot about those mma glove, cuz I'm tired of getting my hands hurt. I'd like something a little more period looking.
What do you sages think?

[Dabbanoth]

Doublecore 3/8" fiberglass is the way to go for minreds, barely over weight, hardly any flex, and its easy to work with.

18 inches of handle, 30 inches of blade

[Davit]

Lol, FB this would be better placed into the Foamsmithing forum....

[Big King Jimmy]

Doublecore 3/8" fiberglass is the way to go for minreds, barely over weight, hardly any flex, and its easy to work with.

18 inches of handle, 30 inches of blade

Why not just use a 3/4 by 3/8 square core? Do they not make them?

[Dabbanoth]

3/8" Rounds are ~50 cents apeice around here.

[tvetree]

I'm also think alot about those mma glove, cuz I'm tired of getting my hands hurt. I'd like something a little more period looking.
What do you sages think?

http://www.midrealmleather.com/store/in ... e50dec8c74

[Forkbeard]

I want to continue this discusion through weapon material into fighting techniques.
I, for instance, tend to fight really close in with a short red, using the handle and pommel to block alot of shots. This is why I'm going with the max handle length this time.
I think I have a 1/2" X3/4" solid core around here somewhere, but it's extremely brutal. I need this sword to be mild enough on the hit tests to pass with as little blade mataianance as possible.
I have that 1/2" square core with a blade already on it. It's an edhellen red sword blade I put on myself a long time ago. It had about an 11 inch handle and didn't feel very good to fight with.
I rebuilt the handle and made it about 17" long and added a counter weight. It balances right at the front of the handle. I also used 1/8" rope instead of 1/2".
I always make my handles oblong by glueing rods to the sides of the core. I feel this make the weapon feel more like a real sword in my hand and it help me guide my edge. I hate to flat people.
Anyway, now it handles real smooth now. I think this might be a good start.
FB

[Big King Jimmy]

keep in mind, that depending how they test for flex a longer handle could help or hurt. If they use a shield edge test, and test it at the bottom of the blade, it'll help because the bottom of the blade is further up. But if they use a whip test, with less blade to hold the core stiff, I think it will flex more.

[Jeggrim]

I've used 11/16 round cores for red swords/mini glaives up to 6' in length with no problems to date.

--Jegg

[Arrakis]

Half inch square fiber is a ridiculously awesome small-red core. I've got two, a 52" red-green and a 49" red, built on 1/2"^2 fiber and they have very minimal flex.

If you don't mind the core flexing towards the flats, there's always 1/2x3/8 fiber... I just don't like the way the lateral flex twists your flat towards your target on impact.

[Kitsune of Heidoran]

Doublecore 3/8" fiberglass is the way to go for minreds, barely over weight, hardly any flex, and its easy to work with.

18 inches of handle, 30 inches of blade

My doublecore 3/8" failed for flex after a few practices. The size felt great on the handle though

[Forkbeard]

Well, so far the new sword is a success.
It's about 31" blade and 18" handle, plus pommel. I put a stabbing tip on it that is working great(I hope it passes at an event).
The 1/2" square core I used has very minimal flex, but I seem to be able to get it to flex a little when really whackin people.
Now it's seems to be a matter of ajusting my style.
I usually fight with very long weapons, even though a 4 footer has always been my fav.
I'm trying to keep my elbows in and pivot the sword mostly in front of me. It's woking fairly well but some of the locals who know my tricks are still getting inside.
I'm hoping to develope some moves specificly for fighting S&B people without armor or buckler. That way when I have both I'll be that much better off.
The trick I'm currently working out is a few real strong blocks followed by a sweep either up or down just inside the other guys sheild. I thought it would be a good arm move, but I seem to be hitting the torso more than anything else. That works for me, but I must be doing something inside their shield I can't see.
Maybe I'll know more Wed after practice.
FB

[bo1]

you shoudl try a pair of 14" lacrosse gloves. i cut the cuff off so i don't miss those forarm shots but they are super comfortable and allow for all the little movements and feedback from the sword. i love mine and they can take hits from rattan with no padding, no problem. lacrosse gloves are the closest thing to a production product for our sport. the same game machanics apply in both.

[Arrakis]

Bo, now that sounds like a good idea! Where did you get yours/how much did they cost/what brand were they/how long have they held up?

[Davit]

Cutting the wrist protection off is a really good idea, I've seen many people mislabel shots once they have put the gloves on. I do not think that they are doing so intentionally, but like bo pointed out, it's easy to do because they are part of the whole glove.

[bo1]

i have seen 3 different types.
gait, stx and shamrock. all are great, all last good, over a year for me.
price ranges from 40$ shipped to 100$, but the 100$ ones were the right color for my heraldry so i didn't care about price on those.

also you need to get 13" minimum size. try to get 14" if you have big hands.
i need 14" ones, but 13 just make it fit. don't get 12" they are for 13 year olds.

[Arrakis]

Right on, thanks.

[Shyftir]

Another potentially useful core for small reds are fiberglass rake handles. They are similar to band-shoppe pole but lighter. You can buy them at menards or wal-mart, and probably any hardware store too. Just saw off the metal rake head and you have a light strong core with very little flex. I use them for mini-glaves but any shorter red should be possible.

[Forkbeard]

I've already broke a rake handle.
I did make a 5 foot axe from bandpole. It **** rules.
Pussies keep failing the stabing tip, though.
I built some leather half guantlets.
I'm trying to post pic's of them and my SCA helm this week.
FB

[Purgatory]

i just got through making a almost 5' red great sword for one of my guys in our group. i used 1\2" pvc for core. i lined the edges after padding with open celled foam and gave it a stabbing tip too. it works great had to tweek it a few times but though a bit heavy to me Sigurd loves it

[Forkbeard]

DUde, I wouldn't use PVC for red weapons. They will break. I don't use it for any weapons at all. I was using a guys cool curves short sword at practice a week ago and broke it across Magnus' leg. I didn't even hit him very hard.
I only use solid fiberglass or Band poles for my red weapons.
FB

[Derian]

Especially not 1/2" for a 60" weapon.

[Arrakis]

Yeah, that's gotta be made of fail.

[Big King Jimmy]

I totally read that as 1" the first time. Yah, flexes like a fun noodle.