Originally posted on E-Sam so I swiped it with Spyn's permission. The original thread can be found here.
http://www.electricsamurai.com/forums/v ... 5&start=15
1. Positioning
A. Grip = modified saber, turn wrist out. It is very important to have the correct grip. It makes learning everything else so much easier.
B. Stance = Feet positioning, Keep knees bent at all times. Arm positioning is the most important but will be covered by basic block strike.
There are two ways to stand
1. Sword foot forward.
2. Off foot forward. Goofy footed as some people call it
C. Guard = Positioning of the sword
There are 4 major guards
1.Denial Guard. ala sword held straight up, tip slightly to opponent... Closing outside or inside off to attacks by placing a heavy guard there
2.Bait Guard. ala sword held parallel to the ground and away from the body. This stance is used to bait your opponents into predictable openers based on sword height from the ground.
3.Ranging Guard...Sword pointed at opponent held away from your body. This stance forces the opponent to deal with sword before you can throw a normal opener ...also used to maneuver or position your opponent by changing the angle at which your sword is pointed at him
4.Open Guard...arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw a opponent in or to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position
2. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are more to know correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before any other training can begin. Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder wrap, Crossing Flat wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of the wraps, pretty much a must learn first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used ... ala the flat high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside from a medium range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to maximize speed and still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso or shoulder pocket, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block
4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better
5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable opener or series of shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next or what they will do if presented with various shots or openings
6. After these skills are practiced and burned to memory then and only then begin playing block strike. Many people view block strike as learning form or how to hit people. Block-strike was invented as a way to teach reading skills. The secondary effect of learning reading skills and training so close is that your static defense will improve along with parrying skills. That’s why the two targets are always on opposite sides of the body. Drills at this point in your career are the most important things you can do. I teach many drills but most your cannot convey over text.
Useing the wrist rollies for forearm strength or dynaflex for your wrist is also something good for you.
Thats the basic order we start with
Spyn