Archery
----Safety
----Calling your shots
----Suggested equipment
----Proper form
----Hitting what you're aiming at
----Target priorities
----Hitting a moving target
----Combat archery
I. Safety
-Safety rules
--Half-draw!!!!!!
--Keep in mind that we are taking something that is inherently dangerous and transforming it into something safe.
--NEVER dry fire a bow. If you release the string under tension with no arrow nocked, the energy stored in the limbs is not transferred to the arrow but back to the limbs, possibly shattering the limbs.
--Note that the 2 1/2” rule does not apply to arrow nocks or to the tips of the limbs. Be careful when using a bow to turn aside a thrust or to block.
--Grappling
Archery-specific BOW rules
3.6.4. Combatants with Missile Weapons (Type 4, bow/arrows) may not initiate Grapples or be Grappled
3.8. Missile Weapon Conventions
3.8.1. If a bow is struck by a Class 1 or 2 Weapon, it is considered broken and cannot be used.
3.8.2. A half draw or throw for Class 4 Weapons under a range of 15 feet is required.
3.8.3. A missile Weapon must travel its entire length to score a hit.
3.8.4. A missile Weapon is considered to have hit if there is significant deflection of the missile head (>30 degrees). Once the missile head has significantly deflected off a target, the missile is rendered harmless.
3.8.5. As an exception to rule 1.3, an attacker who attacks with a Class 4 Weapon may determine and call a combat hit with when attacking with such a Weapon.
3.8.6. Blocking Missiles
3.8.6.1. All Class 4 or 5 missiles besides arrows may be blocked by any means that keeps the missile away from a Target Area.
3.8.6.2. An arrow may only be blocked by a Shield. An arrow blocked by a Weapon is considered to have continued to travel in the same direction and strike the Target Area behind the Weapon.
3.8.6.3. Intentional blocking of an arrow with a Weapon causes Death to the blocker.
1.9. Archery Restrictions:
1.9.1. No compound bows or compound crossbows.
1.9.2. The maximum poundage allowed on a bow is 35 lbs pull at 28 inches of draw.
1.9.3. The maximum poundage allowed on a crossbow is 15 lbs at its loaded draw.
1.9.4. A draw stop is required to prevent an arrow from being drawn more than 28 inches.
1.9.5. Arrow striking surfaces may not easily pass more than 0.5 inches through a 2.5-inch diameter hole. No part of the arrow-striking surface may be less than 2.5 inches in any direction.
1.9.6. All arrows must contain a perpendicular penny secured at the end of the shaft.
1.9.7. The arrow striking surface must be constructed of open-cell foam.
1.9.8. All arrows must have at least two full fletching.
1.9.9. The striking surface of an arrow must be tape free.
1.9.10. The arrowhead should not have excess axial or lateral movement.
-Know your equipment
-How to check your bow
--Check the riser and limbs for cracks or excessive warping or twisting
--Check your string for any weak points
--Make sure the string is properly strung with the string properly seated in the notches on the limb tips
-How to check an arrow
--Make sure the arrow is not cracked or broken. Certain kinds of arrows can actually spiral out when they break.
--Check that your nock isn't broken
--Make sure you have complete fletchings
--Make sure your arrowhead doesn't wobble excessively
--Make sure your arrowhead doesn't shift forward or back on the arrow shaft
--Press in on the top of the arrow using the pad (not the tip) of your thumb and make sure you don't feel the penny
--Make sure you have a draw stop if your arrows are longer than 28"
Ia. Calling your shots. This can be tough and has the potential to be abused. I recommend using it sparingly
-Know and understand the archery rules
-Following the shot
--Anything in the way
--What's behind the weapon
-Should I call the shot? I tend to wave off far more shots than actually call, especially garb and shaft shots.
-Identifying the individual
--Ideally, by name
--By garb or weapon, as specific as possible
--Keep it short or it'll get drowned out
-Clarity from your perspective may not be the same from the target's
-If needed, discuss after the battle
--be calm, respectful.
--Don't let anger or frustration get the better of you if the other person's getting belligerent about it.
Ib. Improving your skill and the other person's awareness: Your goal should be maintaining a high rate of fire while achieving solid accuracy
--After a fight, tell the person why you shot him/her. Some ideas: You had your shield away from your body. You were focused only on what was in front of you. You had a glaive supporting your line. I saw you calling out commands to the other fighters.
--Suggestions about how to avoid getting shot. Remind the person to watch for archers and know where they are, especially if they're ripe targets such as reds or florentiners.
--Improving people's awareness forces you to be more accurate and careful in shot selection
II. Parts of the bow
-Basic parts of an arrow
Additional parts of Belegarth arrow: draw stop to prevent the arrow from being drawn past 28" and the foam head.
One thing I've been doing with my arrows is use 1/4-width strips of duct tape at several points on the arrow. These prevent damage to the fletchings and keep the nock in place:
1) Around joint where nock attaches to shaft
2) On either side of the fletchings where they're attached to the shaft
3) At the front of the fletchings all the way around. You should try to make sure they follow the same shape as the fletchings.
-Optional equipment
--Bow stringer: This allows you to string the bow without having to twist the limbs
--Nock rings: Give you a consistent nocking point
--Shelf padding: Reduces the friction between the arrow shaft and the rest
--Bow tester: For checking the poundage on your bow. It also helps if you're at an event or practice and one isn't available
--Extra strings: You never know when it might break
--Bow case or bag: Protects the bow from the elements and getting beat up in the car
--Silencers: Reduces the twang heard when the arrow is fired. This can be useful as some fighters are attuned to that sound and will react when they hear the bow fire.
--Finger protectors: Protects the fingers from the stresses of pulling the string. This is especially useful as you get a bow close to the maximum allowed poundage as the string tension is concentrated on a very small surface area
--Forearm protection: Protects the inside of the forearm from string slap
--Quiver: Keeps your arrows together and easily accessible. A simple one is a cordless drill holster.
--Sidearm: You have to make this quickly accessible such as with a sheath or in your belt.
--Buckler or back shield: Protects you from other archers as well as charging melee fighters
--Helm: Self-explanatory
III. Holding the bow
-Grip of the riser: Try not to grip the bow too tightly. From what I've ready, this is one of the major contributors to string snap. You should use primarily your thumb and index finger to hold the riser
-Finger on the string: I prefer a three-finger grip--index finger above the nock and the other two underneath. There are several other types of grips you can look into.
-Angle of bow to arm
-Finger over arrow: Due to the added weight of the foam head, the arrow is more likely to slide off the shelf if the bow isn't brought up in a straight motion. Once I have the arrow nocked, I place the index finger of my left hand over the arrow to keep it in place until I've brought the bow up into firing postion. Then I move the finger off just before I release the arrow.
IV. Draw and release
-Keeping your arm out of the path of the string—don’t grip too hard, relax shoulder
-Push out with the left hand and pull back with the right
-Drawing straight back
-Try to keep your elbow either level with the plane of the arrow or slightly above, not below. This is one thing I stress when I'm training a new archer. If you're not pulling with the right arm parallel, it's not as efficient.
-Smooth release--don't anticipate. Release the string in a smooth motion
-Make sure you're not bumping or shaking the bow excessively during the release
As soon as you release the string and see the arrow fly, follow the arrow until it hits something and stops moving. This is, of course, assuming there isn’t someone chasing you down. The reason to follow the arrow is to identify what the arrow hit (if anything) and if there were any other circumstances such as the arrow hitting a shield first or if the arrow struck a weapon or hand on weapon. I’ll be honest. I don’t like calling shots unless I’m sure of where they hit. If I’m not sure and the fighter asks, then I tell him or her not to take it. Continually practice this process without actually aiming at a target. This helps to develop a smooth release.
V. Range estimation
-What happens to an arrow at range? Our arrows don't fly like conventional ones. They tend to fly for a bit and then take a header into the ground.
-How to compensate: You have to practice, especially with your own arrows. Understand how much you have to aim above your target especially at longer ranges.
-Techniques for determining range: The main technique I use is size comparison in relation to the arrowhead. A typical adult at about 5'7" is going to be obscured by the arrowhead differently depending on how far away he is from you.
VI. Aiming and the mental game
I like training a person at 3 ranges: 10 paces (~25 feet), 15 paces (~37.5 feet), and 20 paces (~50 feet). The majority of your high-percentage, i.e., most likely to hit, shots will occur somewhere between those distances.
1) 10 paces. Set up a round shield propped up against a tree, turn around, and walk 10 paces. Begin shooting at the shield with the focus on hitting the shield. Any deflection of more than 30 degrees would be considered a hit. Try to hit the shield 5 times in a row. If you should miss a shot, immediately remember your actions leading up to the release of the arrow and try to identify what was different that might have caused the arrow to miss. Then start over on your count and continue shooting until you’re able to hit the shield 5 times in a row. If you’re feeling comfortable with hitting the target, then bump your count up to 10 times in a row. The key to this is to develop a consistent pattern of loading, preparing and releasing the shot and to analyze what happened during missed shots. Remember that you should start your count over if you should miss during this round.
2) 15 paces. You will have to start adjusting for a bit of arrow drop at this range so remember to keep that in mind. Again, attempt to hit the shield 5 times in a row.
3) 20 paces. Arrow drop gets significant at this range so you will have to aim higher in order to consistently hit the shield.
-Personal feedback with each shot: If something goes wrong with a shot, try going back and replaying the shot in your head. Try and identify what caused the arrow to miss. Did you drop the bow a bit in anticipation of the shot? Was your release a bit jerky? Did you get distracted in the middle of the shot? This process of personal feedback really helps develop body awareness and figuring out what you need to consistently hit the target.
-Using human target
1) Once you’re consistently hitting the shield, move on to hitting a specific point on the shield. Using a quartered shield is helpful during this phase. Identify a specific quadrant you wish to hit and then attempt to hit it 5 times in a row. Again, personal feedback is critical. As you zero in your accuracy, variances in anything from grip to aiming point can affect your accuracy enough to miss the target.
2) Once you’re consistent in hitting a quadrant, it’s time to find a willing victim..er, volunteer. Have the person stand up with their back to you and holding their arms up so that their body forms a “T”. Have your volunteer call up a specific body part such as “right arm”, “left leg”, etc. and then attempt to hit the designated target. Your goal here is to hit the person 5 times in a row. If you should miss, reset your count and analyze why you missed.
3) Tighten the shot. Now have the volunteer call out a specific part of a target zone such as “left knee”, “right thigh”, “left elbow”, “right lung”, “small of the back”, “left kidney”, “right shoulder blade”, etc. As with everything else, try to hit the person in those specific points 5 times in a row.
4) Working a shield. Have your volunteer hold the shield normally. Unless your volunteer is wearing a helm or is willing, I would not recommend aiming for the head. Besides, if you can hit a person’s leg, you should be able to hit their head since it’s about twice the width. Target the areas not protected by a shield.
--"Aim small, miss small"
-Focus and visualization--see the path the arrow is going to take before it ever leaves the bow.
-Develop and trust your instincts--to the point where it "feels" right—practice, practice, practice
VII. Target priorities
As an archer, you want to hit the targets that would have the most impact on the other side. But you have to balance that requirement with the fact that the most high-value targets usually are the hardest ones to hit. You could go for the florentiner without a shield who would probably be a high-percentage shot but you have to balance that with looking at that fast skirmisher or battle commander.
My target priorities:
1) Leaders-self-explanatory
2) Enemy archers-Get them before they get you
3) Spears and polearms-Can engage outside of melee range and can break shields.
4) Other targets of opportunity: skirmishers (tend to be very quick which makes them hard targets to hit), shield fighters, armored
--Shooting to foul the archer's shot
--Distraction
--Disrupting momentum
VIII. Hitting a moving target
Lead is aiming and firing ahead of a moving target in order for the arrow and target to reach a point at the same time. If you’ve tried hitting a moving target before, you’ve probably noticed that if you aim for where the target is right now, you will miss. To be successful in leading a target, you must aim for where you think the target will be after the arrow and target have moved. There are a great number of variables that have to be considered such as movement speed of the target, range (an arrow will slow down and drop as it travels farther and this has to be taken into account), wind, available targets points (if someone has a very large shield, your only target may be their head), your movement, and obstacles between you and the target.
IX. Combat archery
Your best targets are the ones that don’t realize you’re there. The fighters directly to your front will more than likely see you targeting them and will be ready for the arrow. However, the fighters at about your 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock are less likely to see you. Also, at those angles, you can often get shots into the openings between their bodies and shields.
Line archery-As a line archer, you are a critical part of the line’s success. If you can successfully take out the other line’s archers, spears, and polearms, then you’re reducing the other line’s effectiveness. Shoot and move. Don’t stand still for to long. As soon as you’ve released that arrow, start moving again. This lessens the chance of an enemy archer drawing a bead on you.
Skirmish archery-Serve as a distraction. If people are focusing on you, then they’re not focusing on the other fighters. You really have to take responsibility for your own defense as you will likely be extremely mobile.
