Female dress, for fight and play

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Female dress, for fight and play

Postby ladybug » Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:24 pm

So I pulled Stellaria's apron dress pattern off the Dag boards a while ago and lately I have been making a bunch of dresses just for random garb and to fight in. I used duck cloth on every dress, and it is surprisingly nice to wear. I have not worn it while it was insanely hot outside, but I don't have to worry about that all that much here in Seattle. The pattern consists of a front and back panel, sewn to side panels made of two different pieces. They are then laced together so that the dress can hug your curves :D. The effect is to give you a contoured top with a full skirt. The instructions originally called for rings, or D-rings to be sewn into the side seams, which was used to lace the dress. I tried the D-rings and did not like the results. They were too big and bulky. However, I think chain mail rings would work quite nicely, but I do not have a ready supply. Instead I first tried small eyelets, with disappointing results, and then larger eyelets, with more success. Not all duck cloth is made the same, and I found that the 'heavier' cloth holds the eyelets much better than the 'lighter' cloth. This does make the dress harder to lace and get in and out of, but I don't have too much trouble. The only problem with the original pattern is that there is a lot of extra fabric on the sides, making your hips look HUGE. I have since cut down the dimensions, but no matter what, hips will ensue.

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This was my second dress which I used at an SCA event, because apparently showing your ankles is frowned upon. The inspiration for Stellaria's pattern was something she could wear in the winter and abuse the hell out of. I have already done this and they wash out just fine. I have even run on my knees without a problem (although getting the technique right takes a couple tries, but it is doable).

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A look at the lacing from the side. I also found that the larger eyelets set at an inch and a half look better then smaller eyelets.

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This was my first dress, and as you can see on the right, I have torn out a couple eyelets, while the left side remains intact. The yellow fabric felt 'lighter' and frayed much more easily than the maroon fabric.

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With this dress I used larger eyelets, but with the same result. I even backed the 'lighter' brown fabric with some of the stronger maroon stuff, but they still pulled out. I did try wrapping some of the eyelets with thread to secure them better, which worked and helped to disguise their presence. You can also see the seem in the side panel

I finished this last dress today for a mini-event on Sunday. I shortened the hem to mid-calf to give me more maneuverability, yet still maintain that nice dress appeal.

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While still trying to solve the big hips problem (which is kind of hard considering mine aren't those of a twelve year old boy) I think this is the best dress of the bunch. I did several things differently than I did with the other dresses. For one, I made sure that the fabric I used was 'strong' duck cloth and the eyelets large. This has resulted in no torn eyelets.

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Secondly, I used bias tape to lace the dress. I had tried various different types of leather cord to lace previous dresses, but many of them just weren't strong enough to pull the dress tight and take heavy abuse as well. Some cords worked, but many just snapped. This time I used bias tape, which I think looks better. It certainly feels stronger and holds better than most of the leather cords. I also liked how I switched the ribbon from the top of the dress to an empire set. Makes my waist look smaller :D .

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Anyways, hopes this inspires some of you ladies! I will try and post a rough pattern later, but right now I am a little tipsy and not coordinated enough for paint :P
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Satanaka » Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:10 pm

good work!!!

I have a few tough things I want to make but can't find my pattern after moving 3 times in 9 years.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Arrakis » Sat Aug 15, 2009 11:47 am

A few things:

a) I love the empire waist trim. Awesome work.

b) Don't try to make your hips look smaller. Hips are awwwwesoommme.

c) Stitch reinforced buttonholes instead of using set-in eyelets. They'll be sturdier.


Awesome work.

Edited because I fail spelling.
Last edited by Arrakis on Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Bahku » Sat Aug 15, 2009 1:08 pm

Arrakis wrote:Awesoe work.



What he said.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Cib » Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:40 pm

Trouble with eyelets? Use the fabric you like and reinforce it with a thicker backing before inserting your eyelets. see: http://stuffmaker.blogspot.com/2008/06/ ... -easy.html

Good work with the all those different attempts. Takes a lot of perseverance!
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby ladybug » Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:32 am

I had a talk with Bortas at the Talinor invitational and I think I will be redoing at least the last two dresses. I am going to take out the seem up to the hips, splitting the sides and extend the lacing down so that it contours to more of my torso, which might also get rid of some of that pesky tummy bump.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Sorcia » Mon Aug 17, 2009 9:58 am

These look great!

I would recommend using grommets instead of eyelets since they are sturdier and have a locking back ring. They may be a little more beefy but they work nicely and are smooth on front and back.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Bronwyn Trea » Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:28 pm

I really love the green one it's so pretty!
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Cade » Wed Aug 19, 2009 2:01 pm

Arrakis wrote:
b) Don't try to make your hips look smaller. Hips are awwwwesoommme.



Quoted for absolute epic truth.

My girl is about your build and It's perfect. Hips make a woman.

And i wish i had even half your sewing ability. Very nicely done.
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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Thomas MacFinn » Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:46 pm

If you are worried about cloth gathered at the hips, how about lacing it in the front?

I knew somebody who fought in a two part dress. There was an under-dress (more of a shift, really) that was long sleeve and made of very breathable linen with a much thicker panel in the front.

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Over the under-dress, she wore a sleeveless overdress that was open in the front.

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Re: Female dress, for fight and play

Postby Gronk of MN » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:24 am

Hips are the way to real men's hearts.

These look really well done and comfortable; Ladybug.
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