Troll coat help

[Svartroxi Angismar]

Looking for some advice from those experienced garbers out there, what is a decent pattern to use for the Troll trench coat? Note I don't actually plan on having sleeves.

Also what would be the most effective fabric/thread/style of stitching to grab for a project such as this. I also plan on having more than enough dangley bits sewn into the coat once I get it made.

Major note: I will probably need more of the heavier duty thread/stitching as I am on the ground a lot rolling about either from tripping over myself or dodging in a more-or-less acrobatic manner and would rather not pull the thing apart without having to put some effort into it.

[Saria]

with regards to the thread type, you can if you wish use something like upholstery thread, or heavy duty thread to stitch down the seams if you want.

I find that leaving 1 1/4 inch seam allowances, then double folding the edge of the seam down and sewing it both gives it a really nice edge and reduces the chance of it ripping out and is a good way to make sure things don't fray. I also recommend using the re-enforced stitch on your machine (almost every machine I've seen has one) and if you don't have one just run your seam line about 1/8th of an inch next to your first line of stitching, so the fabric would have to rip through two sets of stitching and a double folded piece of fabric in order to rip out. As long as you use a good brand of thread (I prefer guterman or metter) you should be fine. I prefer this method, as upholstery thread and heavy duty thread are thicker and more expensive, meaning you need to use a larger holed needle, which depending on the fabric can be tricky.

the only problem this method has is that when you are sewing very tight curves the fabric can bunch. I would recommend clipping you seams and then running a zig zag stitch over the edges to prevent fraying.

Also I'm not sure if you already have a pattern, but I would recommend going for a Simplicity pattern rather than a MCalls or vogue, or even taking apart an old coat bought from good will. Depending on the pattern, they can be very complicated, and only work for specific types of fabric. usually there are fabric suggestions on the back of the pattern. Make sure the types of fabric you choose are consistent with the drape you want, also It wouldn't hurt to throw some fusible interfacing inside, to stiffen up your fabric. Remember! dying fabric is easy, just throw it in a bucket with some RIT dye (the cheapest) and you can make your own custom color.

[Soo Ma Tai]

Go to the thrift store, but a trenchcoat. Modify it from there. That's my suggestion.

[Saria]

Wheres the fun in that?

[Svartroxi Angismar]

Oh trust me I've been looking in the thrift stores. Either I'm just retarded, our stores are lacking in trench coats, or I'm going to the wrong ones.

I really wish I can find a coat that I can cannibalize, mainly because the most difficult thing I've even done sewing-wise is reattach a button. Not to mention I'm sorta an impatient person and would get mildly frustrated easily with attempting to make a jacket, but I figure frustration is better than no trench.

[Arrakis]

I'd do flatfelled seams on anything I could and double stitch and zig-zag/serge anything I couldn't. Plus probably french seams any straight seams I couldn't flatfell.

Fabric-wise, I'd go with a heavy shell fabric and a nicer lining fabric, if you want to line it. Like, 12 oz cotton canvas or coating wool and lined with 5 oz linen. Remember: fabric choice is going to affect the properties the coat has when it's built: heat retention, water resistance, breathability, flowy-ness, etc. And please remember to launder your fabrics before you cut them. Toss the whole cut lengths you buy from wherever into the washer on HOT with some detergent and let 'er run, at least once. Then, dryer, Hot, with fabric softener sheets, unless you're planning on hang-drying the finished garment.

Threads... If you're really really concerned with the seams outliving you and your progeny, buy some good silk thread and do those heavy duty seams I was talking about (or Saria's way is fine, too). Otherwise, yeah, Heavy Duty threads are fine.

Good luck.

Oh, and, for pattern: are you just looking for an open-front flowy coat-thing? A standard kyrtle pattern, extended in length to the calf and split down the front, with no sleeves, might do the job for you. Otherwise/also, check out: http://www.geocities.com/kaganate/kaftan2.html

[Todo]

[quote="Arrakis"]Plus probably french seams any straight seams I couldn't flatfell.
/quote]

Troll and French do not belong together.

[Sir Guts]

okay seriously..... trolll coat very simple thing but dese pinkies not know. We trolls wear trenchs as home me age to our original troll brethren who when escaping de orc opression used ragged fabric to hide themselves among the sails of a ship. Simplr troll coat should include hat troll symbol, usually long and flowwwy and de color can refer to your tribe. de slaughtergutt tribe wear green trench coats. simple pattern is make a form fitted tunic, with a split down the center in the front, obviously extend the length. then add on too it. i will find pictures of some of my trenches for you silly pinkies, and your french fried seams.