Garb ripping at every practice?

[Dagger]

I'm not sure if there's something wrong with the construction of my garb or my fighting, but my garb seems to rip at just about every practice. Particularly along the crotch seam on my pants, and now, with the addition of a pleated battle skirt, the rear seam on that as well.

I'm currently using a pair of scrub pants that I have decked out with lots of design and patterning, but these are perpetually ripped. The skirt was made from 4 different fabrics. I've experimented with many different fabrics, of varying thickness and stretchability, but this seems to be a recurring problem. All my stuff is machine sewn.

Are there any patterning tricks I'm missing that could help alleviate this?

[Sluj]

Heavy stitching runs across it like 4 or 5 times in the stress areas

[Agneezy]

extra square/diamond shaped panel in the crotch. extra stitching wont help that much because the fabric next to the seam is going to rip not the stitch itself

[Kraylose]

Heavier stitching and add patches.

Remember your a monster, were not supposed to look clean cut like those pinkies.

[randy]

look up a flatfelt or a french seam. They are the best ways to prevent crotch rip. Also adding a diamond gore in the crotch area will help.

[Plithut]

Honestly, if you are ripping seams, the seams are still too tight. Add a little more fabric to compensate.

[Sieglatan]

Also, after seeing your garb, I would emphasize the practice of adding a zig-zag stitch after the primary straight stitch so that your fabric doesn't unravel.

[Arrakis]

First: Scrubs are good as newb garb, but they don't hold up so well to physical activity (as you've learned). Better to make your own pants out of a good, sturdy material, like worsted wool (which basically refuses to rip).

Second: When you sew them, as Agneezy said, you want a diamond gusset in the crotch. I'll see if I can find you a pic or a tutorial without trying to take explanatory pictures of my own (black, of course *eye roll*) pants...

Ah! Here:



I use Figure 2's method or making two tubes with a square (diamond?) gusset for the crotch. It works awesomely. You can even taper the legs a bit towards the ankles for more historicity/easier fit under leg armor. I've never had any problems with blowouts. (Note: the dimensions on the picture are for "braies" which are basically medieval boxer shorts; they'll come out pretty short, but are AWESOME to make out of linen and wear under tunics (without other pants!) or under another kind of pants (especially hosen). You'll have to figure out how long and wide you need the legs when you pattern your new pants.)

Third: Be sure you sew the seams right. Good backstitch and Simple seam finish (zig-zag and press open) will serve you fine, but go over the corners of the gusset twice with each of those stitches. Otherwise, French seams might work for the gusset, but I ain't gonna try to figure out how to make that work (yuck!). Make sure you give yourself plenty of crotch and plenty of butt room.

With the drawstring at the top, these pants can easily be made with rectangles for the legs that are each 3/4 of your waist measurement wide (resulting in pants with an almost one-and-a-half-of-your-waist-measurement-wide drawstring top!) and still work fine, if you need. Pants that baggy will look better with winingas (strips of fulled wool ~4" wide wrapped around the shins) or tucked into low boots; skinnier pants are more appropriate for most places during most periods (in Europe, that is).

I recommend making your first pair out of bedsheets (Goodwill or yard sales, SUPER cheap) for the practice and to get the sizing right, then order some nice worsted wool or heavy linen canvas (from fabricmartfabrics.com or fabric-store.com are your best bets; wait for sales!) for your real pair of fighting pants. It would benefit you greatly to make two pair of good pants, so when one starts stinking (less of a problem with wool than linen, and less with linen than cotton) at an event, you can switch out lol.

Good luck!