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Mefit the Geek wrote:You'll get what I give you and like it!
Ryoma wrote:This presents a problem for me as I can't find any cups that are big enough to fit me. :(
Slagar wrote:MinTech: Feel the freshness, *.
Sage wrote:I prefer the use of double sided carpet tape in most of my creations but that's my preference. Many people don't like carpet tape b/c it supposedly does'nt grip the foam as well as DAP long term but I haven't had that trouble with my weapons. And I store them pretty crappily honestly. Some of them have been around 2 years and still pass at events as backups.
Kasada wrote:I would give the same advise as Forkbeard, *except* use 3/8" square fiberglass instead of 1/2" round if you can find it, and use 1/4" rope rather than 1/8". Also, I suggest a 96% cotton / 4% spandex blend for the cover fabric, and a small piece of leather near the tip on each flat to help reinforce. Also, I suggest having the 1/4" steel bars in the handle go all the way into the pommel for additional counter-weighting.
bo1 wrote:lols. nice arrakis, way to bash the kid into the ground.
Kasada wrote:The spandex addition to the cover material is nice if you like to shape the blade slightly - on 1/2", one is very likely to end up with a blade that is more than sufficiently wide to trim off about 1/8" from each corner. Aside from that, the material I suggest is lighter than poplin. Both are perfectly valid choices, neither is strictly necessary. Swords are, after all, pieces of art in addition to being tools to hit people with.
Kasada wrote:If you really, really want to avoid breakage but still have the steel counterweighting and oblong hilt, it seems that using a method similar to the way railroad tracks are placed might be effective. That is, use several shorter segments with a very small amount of space between them on the hilt rather than full length solid bars. I'm sure Arrakis could verify things on that on the stress distribution side of things.
Kasada wrote:I would appreciate an explanation of the allegation that leather tip reinforcement would cause failure in any case. It barely adds weight, makes an accidental flat hit in fact softer rather than harder, and isn't so wide as to block blade compression.
Kauramnast wrote:I know what you're thinking, use the search engine. I used it, several times with several key words and I still haven't found what I need. I keep finding lists of materials at my disposal, but nothing that states the absolute best foam, adheasive, and core.
I have inexhaustable funds and I'm looking to make twin longswords for florentine fighting.
To start, I'm completely clueless when it comes to foams. I just know the basics of- open cell for the stab, closed cell for the blade. What's the best open and closed cell foams for flat blade long swords?
For cores, I know fiberglass is king, however I wanted to know if there was a recommended supplier/diameter/thickness and also, could i just use a bandshoppe pole for blue weapons? ( I know they're used for red weapons, I'm making the suggestion because i already have an 8' bandshoppe pole which is enough to core two blues)
Last, what type of fabric would i want to help better protect my foam?
Elebrim wrote:...I question why lately it seems like we must do everything that Amtgard does or else we are no longer the best fighters. I don't think it's right or necessary.
LoganSteele wrote:I may have a local foam supplier where i can get the good stuff and get away from using blue. I have some reds i wish to rebuild and i want them to be good quality. I have learned some of our terms make employees scratch thier heads such as "Techply" which is actually birch plywood or something like that. Here is my question...
If i go to a person to order foam will they understand when i say " i need a sheet of 1/2" thick closed cell 4 pound eva foam and a sheet of 1/4" thick closed cell 2 pound eva foam (this is what replaces blue, right?) ?
Arrakis wrote: then replace the final two layers of bluefoam with higher quality blade foam, such as 2# MC or PE.
Kauramnast wrote:Bleh! Never knew something so simple could be so frustrating; I mainly seem to be lost in translation as this community seems to use a lot of made up terms that I don't find on any foam website, such as "2#" etc. you wont find anything like that on any website online, so while I've found several sources of eva foam at very decent prices (for my range anyway); I'm hesitant to make any purchases on the off chance that I'll end up with 30$ worth of the wrong stuff.
I'll just stick with the blue camp pad foam which is a shame. Not trying to whine or say you guys haven't been helpful. If anything I'm helping you guys out by making you lean towards a better way of explaining thing to those who are new to the sport.
It just seems as if people have been talking riddles when it comes to foam lol. Directing people to websites and using lingo you can't find on the website you referred them to. All I have to go off of is "#2 and #4 1/2 inch Eva foam" and I you plug that into any search engine you won't find what you're looking for.
And I mean no offense when I say I'm not going to pay some random user of a forum I just joined to construct something I could construct myself if I were given the proper sources and names of the materials needed for a project :s
There are no staffs in Belegarth. Because of how they are constructed, they are really Pugil Sticks.
Derian wrote:Well, ****. Par is right.
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