Dap or Spray Glue
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 8:29 amthe question to all weapons makers...but i prefer Dap
Page 1 of 1
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 8:29 amPosted: Thu May 01, 2003 9:03 amI have got to say DAP unless its open cell foam which DAP doesnt work well with.
Dap
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 9:28 amDefinatly dap it jut holds better , but i have seen good weapons made with spray glue or carpet tape, but i don't thik the hold up as long.
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 11:49 amIKE wrote:I have got to say DAP unless its open cell foam which DAP doesnt work well with.
I agree that DAP is a little harder to use with open cell, as it tends to suck up a lot of glue. I've had success using DAP from an old can from which a good bit of the solvent has evaporated, as it goes on thicker. It doesn't work well for anything else, and I'm too cheap to throw it out. You can also apply a thin skim coat to the open cell, let it set up, and then apply a regular coat for bonding.
B of E.U.
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 12:18 pmI can't get weapons to hold with spray crap... I mean glue. I don't use anything but DAP... unless it's that stuff that you have to have a licence to buy (Super M333 I was told about it) and even that you should only use for a quick fix to pass for 1-3 hours.
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 12:48 pmDap
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 1:09 pmBarahir of Emyn Uial wrote:I agree that DAP is a little harder to use with open cell,
put the dap on the area you want to glue of the open cell foam and then let dry over night, it stops the sponge effect in that area.
Hmm, guess I'm the one.
Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 1:58 pmI've never had a problem with spray glue. I think that both work well, as long as you know how to use them. Any weapons I've made with spray glue either had the core snap or the foam break down - neither because of the glue. Furthermore, when I've pulled apart the weapons that broke down, the foam rips before the glue gives.
Personally, I think working with Super 77 is easier, but to each their own. I think it's just a matter of personal preference.
Personally, I think working with Super 77 is easier, but to each their own. I think it's just a matter of personal preference.
RE: Hmmm...
Posted: Sat May 03, 2003 2:07 pmDAP for closed cell, spray glue for open cell. Personally, DAP is a little less messy, I think.
Calarn the Black
Calarn the Black
Posted: Sat May 03, 2003 2:59 pmDap all the way!
Posted: Sat May 03, 2003 5:34 pmDAP, spray glue for open cell. DAP is messy, my hands are covered in it.
Posted: Sun May 04, 2003 6:51 pmJust like everyone else says, Dap holds better on closed cell, Spray glue on open. Dap does tend to be a bit heavier, but I think it helps weapons last a lot longer.
Posted: Sun May 04, 2003 6:55 pmPersonal i go for 2x sided carpet tape. Its simple and if you get the right stuff its can hold as well as ive ever had DAP hold.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 1:39 am* you all know you like dap cause it gets yall thrashed......
SPRAY GLUE
3m Spray 90
super77 i dont think holds well enough
SPRAY GLUE
3m Spray 90
super77 i dont think holds well enough
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 8:07 amI use Dap on open cell - You just have to saturate it and then let it try longer but it does seem to work.
Don't like spray glue, I have the tendancy to glue swords to the backdrop, I used 77though not 90 and I wasn't impressed with the hold.
Double sided sticky tape may sound fun but I worry about extreme temperatures - as I understand leaving a dapped sword in a car only cures the glue?
Don't like spray glue, I have the tendancy to glue swords to the backdrop, I used 77though not 90 and I wasn't impressed with the hold.
Double sided sticky tape may sound fun but I worry about extreme temperatures - as I understand leaving a dapped sword in a car only cures the glue?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 9:49 amI didn't vote because like most folks, DAP for Closed cell and Spray glue for open cell and on duct tape.
Instead of messy hands, I use latex gloves to keep from having to peel glue bits off of my hands for days afterwards.
Instead of messy hands, I use latex gloves to keep from having to peel glue bits off of my hands for days afterwards.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 2:47 pmLatex gloves are the key to using DAP. Does anyone know where I can get M90. I have also heard of a Fabled industrial/contractor spray glue of M300+, I don't know the exact number because I didn't believe it.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2003 6:31 pmLike Kyrax, I didn't vote because I use both. DAP on closed cell and spray on open cell. Though I will say that when it comes to building weapons I prefer DAP, but when repairing I love the ability to spray glue deep down into the foam rips.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2003 9:46 amDap is where its at . . . though spray glue on open cell could be very useful . . .
Elwrath of Ered Duath
Elwrath of Ered Duath
Posted: Thu May 15, 2003 3:39 pmBut Elwrath! Spray glue you and your Pack together.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2003 4:11 pmI prefer dap, as I am partial to the flavor. 
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:04 amShrat told me that DAP is good on pig, is it true Jarek?
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:13 amyou can buty 3M spray 90 at any home depot....
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:26 amThanks Killian, does anyone know if there is such a thing a M3** stuff?
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:45 ami think its a myth..... i am allways on the look for more potent things to make weapons...
so far the best ive found is hundred mile an hour tape.... and 3m spray 90
so far the best ive found is hundred mile an hour tape.... and 3m spray 90
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 1:50 amWhat's Hundred Mile an Hour tape?
Posted: Fri May 16, 2003 4:46 pmDap. Much cheaper.
Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 9:42 amI find that a weapon made from Dap lasts longer but is heavier and Dap to me is harder to use then a spray can. So i use spary glue. Some times it depends on what you are building, all weapons dap is fine, but shields should be spray glued.
Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 1:01 pmmilitary duct tape.... its the ****!!!!
look for it a military surplus stores...
ps its really expensive
look for it a military surplus stores...
ps its really expensive
Posted: Sun May 18, 2003 7:41 pmKillian wrote:military duct tape.... its the ****!!!!
look for it a military surplus stores...
ps its really expensive
to hold a weapon together??? talk about heavy, im all for having some weight but bricks suck
Posted: Mon May 19, 2003 8:41 amSome people pefer heavier weapons. Now this is not a dump on the super light weapons that have made an apperiance recently, but i know i like the heavier weapons, something that packs a wallop, so i know the person will feel it if i hit them.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2003 9:24 pmBoth Me and Fox have to glue our swords togethr with Liquid Welder other wise we shred them in a week
Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 11:42 amOhtar i' Astald wrote:DAP, spray glue for open cell. DAP is messy, my hands are covered in it.
For a years I've spread DAP with a popsicle stick (Now that I think about it, probably the SAME popsicle stick.), and I hardly ever get it on my hands. Just take a little at a time, and be sure to blot the drip on the edge of the can.
I've tried using a plastic spoon, but it goes on too heavy and just makes a mess. I also plan to try a small disposable brush to get better coverage on round cores, but I have yet to find the time to play with glue this spring.
B of E.U.
Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 11:48 amSir Morpheus wrote:Both Me and Fox have to glue our swords togethr with Liquid Welder other wise we shred them in a week
Try using better foam. I suspect that your foam is tearing away from the glue, rather than the glue itself failing.
B of E.U.
Posted: Thu May 22, 2003 3:53 pmDAP. never failed me in construction, never failed me in foam smithing
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2003 5:54 amwhen using materials tis is what i do....
use lots of dap ..if that doesnt work...use lots of dap and duct tape....and if that doesnt work use lots of duct tape.....and if that doesnt work either give up or use more duct tape
use lots of dap ..if that doesnt work...use lots of dap and duct tape....and if that doesnt work use lots of duct tape.....and if that doesnt work either give up or use more duct tape
Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2003 9:27 pmI'm rather partial to double stick carpet tape, but....I haven't really used DAP. the ape holds pretty well though.
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2003 12:06 pmis rubber cement dap?
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2003 12:45 pmNo, rubber cement is something different. When people on the board say Dap, they actually mean Weldwood Contact Cement. It says "DAP" next to "Weldwood," which is how it got the name, but I've seen other glues that say "DAP" on them.
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2003 9:30 pmPoier you brute you.
Dap is the way to go at the begining, its simple and dirty. ITs dirt cheep to so you have some room for * ups. Tape and spray glue get realy freakin expensive.
Dap is the way to go at the begining, its simple and dirty. ITs dirt cheep to so you have some room for * ups. Tape and spray glue get realy freakin expensive.
Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2003 10:02 pmI don't even think spray glue holds that well. But I think really the way to go is to heat the foam and melt it into itself. That's kind of what the hot glue did on my arrows, and it stays put real good. (Thanks for the advice, Jikanta)
As for how to heat the foam, considering its flammable, well... That would be why I haven't done it yet.
As for how to heat the foam, considering its flammable, well... That would be why I haven't done it yet.
Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2003 11:37 amPoeir wrote:I don't even think spray glue holds that well. But I think really the way to go is to heat the foam and melt it into itself. That's kind of what the hot glue did on my arrows, and it stays put real good. (Thanks for the advice, Jikanta)
As for how to heat the foam, considering its flammable, well... That would be why I haven't done it yet.
Heating would also destroy the structure of the foam, changing it's density. At the extreme, you end up with a lump of polyethylene without any air in it (i.e. a rock.) You might also introduce voids if some of the material boils. I've had that problem with foam from the edge of a sheet, where the bubbles form when the foam cube is cast. It's similar to the way PVC weakens if it is overheated for bending.
B of E.U.
Posted: Mon May 30, 2005 7:22 pmI only use DAP for the first layer to contact with the pvc. Then I use spray glue... I think it's easier to use and I have had it last longer than DAP before... Maybe cause it's the good ole proffesional grade that us normal people can't buy 
. Just don't ask how I got it...
. Just don't ask how I got it...Posted: Mon May 30, 2005 8:35 pmSpray 90 is excellent for putting full blades back on cores. I have one where I waited too long for it to prep and while I was sliding the blade back on (this was a relatively snug blade as it was) it adhered to the core halfway down and refused to go any further.
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 12:56 amwow, probably one of the worst cases of thread necromacy i have seen.
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 2:15 pmI love DAP. Wearing two layers of plastic gloves is also nice. I had a bad experience with spray glue and a two month long torture project intigated by my HS, so I tend to stay away from it. But I'm sure it would work just as well as DAP if you found the right stuff and the right technique to using it.