The gambeson is finished and has been tested at practice as fight garb. It has turned out very well, I think. I made a few mistakes and learned from them, but overall I am satisfied. Below are pics of the process as well as the final product.
Bear in mind, I'm very new to machine sewing. I've been hand sewing for a long time but other than belt flags, this is the first garment I've sewn. I made some noob mistakes but I'm still learning. Also, forgive the grainy pics. My iPhone is really the only camera I have. Here goes:
I used the pattern/tutorial listed above, but primarily I followed one I found as a Google result
>>here<<.
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/292616_3467332616478_1665943008_2769341_2080362665_n.jpg)
This is the fabric I used. Pre-quilted fabric from Jo-Ann's. It's a poly-cotton fabric with cotton stuffing, sewn down with a diamond pattern. I bought two yards of burgundy and two of wood brown; the fabric was priced at $10/yd but I got it half off
I began by taking my measurements, as per the the tutorials. ThenI cut out four rectangles of the fabric to match my torso measurements, and cut them to the necessary shape-- mostly a slope to fit my ribs and the arm/neck holes. I sewed the back together, then sewed the sides together. I left the front open and hemmed the edges.
MISTAKE #1: I should not have sewn the sides together. I should have sewn it at the shouldersinstead, which would have made tweaking the neck hole much easier. Instead, I did it this way, which caused me to make errors finishing the neck hole; the result was a deep slope in the neck line that I did not want.Next I sewed together the leg flanges, done very similarly to the torso. Four pieces, two of each color; sewn together two at a time, one for the right, one for the left, and attached. Then I hemmed the inside and decided to cant the inside corner for extra stylez.
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/542107_3467443459249_1665943008_2769414_1671214276_n.jpg)
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/535566_3467373457499_1665943008_2769371_369540744_n.jpg)
Next came the collar. As I said, I mucked up the neckline, so I had to design the collar to make the plunged neckline look like it belonged. My solution was just a tall and wide straight collar, made from the fabric doubled over, and sewn into the neckline. Like everything else, I chose alternating colors.
![Image](http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/577731_3467543221743_1665943008_2769510_637415914_n.jpg)
Then came the closures. I contemplated using frogs, but decided I didn't like the look. I wanted buckles, but a point was made in this thread that stuck with me: they can be a pain beneath armor. Instead, I chose decorative eyehook clasps.
MISTAKE #2: After affixing the eyehooks, I realized my measurements were off. The hooks were scooted back as far as I could have them and they did not close tightly enough; indeed they would slip open one by one with any movement on my part. In giving myself extra fabric for seam tolerance, I ended up adding a couple inches to the overall size of the gambeson itself.This turned out to be a relatively happy mistake because it pointed me to my decided closures: buttons. I found some kickass buttons at Jo-Ann's and sewed them in, and the gambeson fits like a glove as a result.
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/522311_3471587562849_1665943008_2771374_1457370416_n.jpg)
![Image](http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/578035_3471734486522_1665943008_2771403_896195469_n.jpg)
And so the body of the gambeson was done. Then came the sleeves. I cut two rectangles of fabric, one of each color, and measured my bicep, elbow, forearm, and wrists, as well as the overall length from shoulder to hand. I folded the fabric and sewed the slope I'd marked, as well as curve for where the sleeve would affix to the shoulder. I hemmed the cuff, and then hemmed the shoulder part.
MISTAKE #3: I realized it was a good idea to double up the fabric for the agilet holes on the sleeve, but also realized that I had not done so on the body of the gambeson. At this point I felt it was too late. Another time when I have the energy I may handstitch another later beneath the gambeson's agilet holes and redo them, but for now, I'm stuck with one layer there.Then I cut all the agilet holes. I decided to go with two: one on the top of the shoulder and one in front. I chose not to do one in back as well because it failed my fitting test. I put everything on and pinned the sleeves on, pulling my arms in over my chest; the pins in the back bent and came out. I was too afraid the tie or the fabric would rip in the back, and decided I didn't need the third hole anyway. The two holes per arm proved enough.
I made the agilet holes by cutting button-holes basically, using multiple lines of tight stitches in a rectangle around the hole, followed by wrapping a hand stitch into the hold to pull the fabric aside. Each time I inserted the handstitch I made sure to do so on the outside of the machine stitch make its hold stronger.
![Image](http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/427955_3467551581952_1665943008_2769518_981879250_n.jpg)
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/578233_3467453619503_1665943008_2769418_912910153_n.jpg)
With the sleeves done, all that was needed was for it to be strung together. I'm still looking for a permenant tie-- some strong leather lace would do nicely-- but for now I'm using thick black ribbon.
As it was a colder day, I wore the gambeson to practice yesterday. It was extremely comfortable beneath my armor; it moved with me, it breathed, it stayed where it was supposed to. After most of the day I discarded my armor and took off the sleeves, fighitng in just the gambeson. No issues whatsoever. It's really not too hot and it's very comfortable.
And, if I may say so, it looks pretty spiffy (even in dramatic poses and with gym shoes).
![Image](http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/531453_3467585222793_1665943008_2769534_777286514_n.jpg)
Some notes:
I intentionally left the seams uncovered on the inside. I did this because I was concerned about the fabric tearing so I wanted to make sure it would be easy to snip the stitches to replace whatever needs it.
In the end I spent about thirty dollars to get everything I needed.